Why the obsession?

Extra Steaming

A new creative avenue? A scientific endeavor? Just hungry?


I’m an artist. I paint. I like the creativity that baking and cooking provide, plus you get to eat what you make. That’s pretty cool.

I like to paint, because hours can go by and something beautiful has emerged while I didn’t even notice. When’s its on, its on. Its the same with designing and building a website, photography, knitting, building furniture, …gardening. The satisfaction is amazing.

Ceramics? Meh. No chemistry. Perhaps I shy away from the gritty clay that tears up your hands… or being wet and cold for hours. However, ceramics and bread-making share many similarities. At their heart, they’re both living mediums molded then baked, emerging as a changed structure ~ completely new and different from their origins. The life within the pre-baked form determines the end result.

Sorry ceramics. It’s not you. It’s me. At this point in life, I’m drawn to the warmth of my oven.

There’s also an intriguing science to bread-making. Only three ingredients are required, but our bodies can’t digest a mass of flour, water, and salt ~ unless that mixture is baked. With such a limited palate, shouldn’t bread be the easiest thing in the world to make? Why doesn’t it come out exactly the same (and exactly the way I want it) every time?

Plus there’s this weird, invisible yeast business.

Yeast is a living entity all around us ~ appearing powdery on red cabbage, living on our skin, and floating in the air. Even if I hadn’t added the cabbage leaves to jump-start June’s creation, there would’ve been natural yeast floating around the kitchen and getting into the flour and water mixture ~ enough to start the fermentation process. Cultivating and nurturing this living element is what intrigues me the most. That, and I’m hungry for a certain kind of bread.

I’m not ready to grow my own wheat, or harvest my own salt or anything (yet ~ ha ha).

Round 4: Me vs Tartine

Tartine Bread Book

June Steinburg, baby.


The next trial in my all-June-Steinburg-all-the-time recipe attempt.

  • 700g JS (Straight ~ no leaven)
  • 450g 80°F H2O
  • 675g AP Flour
  • *75g WW Flour
  • 20g salt + 50g H2O
1. Mix » RestNo float test, mixed in metal bowl, rested 45 min
2. +Salt & Water » Bulk Rise » TurnsMoved to glass bowl, *added 4 handfuls of WW flour at first turn. 4 hrs (every 30 min) » 7 turns, 8x each (vigorous)
3. Pre-shape » Cold RiseBoth loaves into the fridge
4. Loaf I » Final Shape » Bake24 hr cold rise, shaped w/flour » held a nice, tall dome
4. Loaf II » Bake48 hr cold rise, no shaping » held a nice shape

Not a disaster.

NOTES: This still needs a lot of tweaking, but it worked out. The dough felt super wet and sticky during the bulk rise, so I added more whole-wheat flour. In the end, both loaves were perfectly edible but denser and chewier than the accurate recipe. The 1st-day bread was good. Toasted over the next few days the bread had equally good texture and didn’t feel too dried out. Again, both loaves were still too dense ~ not quite getting the air and rise that I’m looking for. However, I like the sour flavor ~ its not too much or too little. The ratios were fairly accurate this time but depend on how much water goes into June’s feedings. I’ll try this again when June gets too big for her britches.


See: Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson

June is on a diet.

2 T out of 4 C

I’m determined to find a way to use more June Steinburg.


A week of feeding yields about 800g (almost 4 cups) of starter, and I’m still put off by the idea of discarding any.

So. June is on a diet.

1 Tablespoon AP flour
+
1 Tablespoon WW flour
+
2 Tablespoons water

… and I’ve put her in the fridge.

I’m baking about twice a week — a loaf for home, a loaf for the hubby at work, and a couple give-aways for gifts and feedback from friends and neighbors. That means 400g of leaven a week (only 2 Tablespoons of June Steinburg).

You can see where this is going. Right?

Only 2 Tablespoons! Out of 4 Cups!

I want to use 700g of June in the next batch. I’ll try adjusting my flour and water ratios to get the same consistency of dough texture as the successful follow-to-the-letter recipe rounds. If I can get June to pass the float test on her own, without a leaven, I think that will work. Plus, I love that sour taste of really sour, sourdough bread ~ I’m hoping more June with cold fermentation will yield more flavor.

Given that her feedings make her half flour and half water, I should be able to adjust each recipe to accommodate using a high amount of June vs a leaven.

We. Shall. See…

Oh yeah. I’ve started running.

Round 3: Tartine

Whole-wheat Flour

Whole-wheat. Here we go…


It will have a little more time than the called-for “overnight”, but I’ve mixed a leaven for this next round. It seems dry, but I’m going for it. I keep peeking under the towel to smell it and see if it’s doing anything…

1. Mix LeavenFollowed weights, measures, and temps exactly
2. Rest » Float TestWe have flotation!
3. Mix Flour (*30/70) » RestMetal bowl, 45 min (mixed extra long… with vigor)
4. +Salt & Water » Bulk RiseMoved to a glass bowl, 4 hrs
5. Turns8x every 30 min (7 vigorous bouts of turning)
6. Pre-shape » Bench Rest30 min & both loaves into the fridge
7. Cold Rise24 hours
8. Final Shaping » BakeShaped and rested 30 minutes before baking

NOTES: Perfect shapes! The whole-wheat has more structure anyway, but working the dough more at each stage seemed to help. Still, the texture is dense and tough with small holes.

*30% All purpose flour and 70% whole-wheat.


See: Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson

No. Starter is not leaven.

Happy Birthday Junebug!

I’ve been confused.


Starter and leaven (also known as a Biga) are not the same thing, at least for my base recipe. I’ve been feeding June Steinburg thinking that was enough, but not mixing a leaven.

A leaven is a small amount of starter mixed with a 50/50 blend of flour and water. You let this rise overnight at room-temperature, allowing its volume to increase by about 20%. A spoonful of leaven should float in room-temperature water, and that’s how you know it has enough gas in it to provide good fermentation for your bread.

Creating a leaven also provides a measured water-to-flour ratio that you wouldn’t necessarily get by just using starter.

The problem is, you only need half of the leaven for a recipe that makes two loaves.

FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!

I’ve tried two things:

  1. Feeding June with the unused half
  2. Cutting the recipe in half and mixing a leaven with 100g 50/50 flour + 100g water

Round 2: Tartine

Splash of Water

Today, I’m doing Tartine’s Basic Country Bread recipe with 90% AP flour. I figure if I can get this right, I can start branching out with my own crazy.


This time, I used exact temperatures and measurements… of course, there was some embellishment.

Using the Kitchen Aid metal bowl, I added all the ingredients for the resting stage and used our hand-held dough whisk to get it started. Things seemed too dry and thick, so I quickly switched to mixing with my hands. Sure enough, the recipe works! The dough became moist and sticky like the photos.

1. Mix Starter (which I’ve confused with leaven…)Fed daily, some discarded
2. Mix Dough (*90/10) » Rest45 min
3. +Salt & Water » Bulk RiseMoved to a glass bowl, 4 hrs
4. Turns5x every 30 min (missed one turn, so added one with another 30 min)
5. Pre-shape » Bench Rest30 min
6. Loaf 1 » Final Shaping » Rise » Bake3 hr rise » Didn’t hold its shape. Knead and rest a second time?
7. Loaf 2 » Into the fridge for 45 hrsAlso didn’t hold its shape.

H2O FYI: 80°F mixing water is easiest to achieve with cold tap water, adding boiled water from the kettle little bits at a time.

NOTES: Best loaves yet. Good crust, good interior… kinda dense with small/medium bubble spaces. Neither loaf held their shape, although the refrigerated loaf was better. Running a blade through the dough for scoring before baking… the blade just smushed into the dough, sinking into stickiness. More kneading during bulk rise, pre-shape, and/or final rise?

*90% All purpose flour and 10% whole-wheat.


See: Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson

What are the best farts?

Fermenting Away

“Wild yeast eats sugar and excretes lactic and acetic acids, producing carbon dioxide during fermentation.”


Starter fermentation ratios are affected by:

  1. Ambient temperature (the ideal temperature is 65-75°F)
  2. % of seed amount (how much flour and water you start with)
  3. Frequency of feedings

Lactic Acid: Sweet/mild flavor »
Un-refrigerated starter with more water, fed often.

Acetic Acid: Sour flavor »
Store starter in fridge and feed with less water.

NOTES: June has been living on the counter at room temperature and fed once a day with smaller seed quantities (1/4 cup 50% AP/50% WW flour + 1/4 cup water). I’ve been pouring off the liquid that accumulates on top of the starter, then adding and stirring in the new for a runnier mixture than what I had before.

Round 1: Me vs Tartine

Tartine Bread Book

How can I use more starter?

Why is my bread terrible?

What the heck?


My first concoction of flours and ingredients based loosely on Tartine’s Basic Country Bread recipe:

  • 600g June Steinburg (JS)
  • 700g water @112°F
  • 500g all-purpose (AP) flour
  • 100g whole-wheat (WW) flour (+ about ten handfuls because the dough was more like batter than dough, added two handfuls at a time during bulk fermentation every 15 minutes)
  • 20g salt + 50g water
1. Mix Dough » Rest35 min
2. Bulk Fermentation5 hrs
3. Shaping » Bench Rest25 min
4. Final Shaping » Rise(shaped twice) 3 hrs
5. Bake(in a dutch oven) 20 min w/lid, 30 min w/o lid

NOTES: Too wet. Too dry. Too wet. I don’t know what the hell I’m doing. The first loaf had a good crust with an airy and yummy interior. I didn’t get a lot of rise though ~ the loaf was fairly flat. I refrigerated the second loaf and left it overnight ~ this one held its shape better and got more rise.

NEXT TIME: Quit being a jerk and use the right amount of starter. And measure everything right too. And stick a thermometer into the water while you’re at it.


See: Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson