Round 11: I Did It My Way

Whole-wheat Flour

Hold the Phone!

Whole-Wheat


I started out using ratios of 20% leaven, 80% water, 40% AP and 60% WW.

This seems reasonable to a logical person, but somehow I felt Junebug wasn’t getting her due. Like she needed more lines in this act. So…

1. Mixed » Rested200g of leaven + 700g of JS
550g Water
325g AP Flour
425g WW Flour
Rested 45 min
3. +Salt & H20 » Bulk Rise4 hrs
4.Turns7 turns, 8x each. Added ingredients after the first turn.
5. Loaves I & II:
Cold Rise
Final Shaping
Bake
48 hr cold rise
Shaped with rice flour, rested 20 min.
25/20, held the lame

EXCELLENT!

What magic is this? Delicious and puffier!

Round 9: I Did It My Way

Whole-wheat Flour

Whole-Wheat


  • 700g JS
  • 550g 75°F H2O
  • 225g AP Flour
  • 525g WW Flour
  • 20g salt + 50g H2O
1. Mix » RestNow using just the metal bowl throughout the process, rested 45 min
2. +Salt & Water » Bulk Rise » Turns4 hrs (every 30 min) » 7 turns, 8x each
3. Pre-shape » Cold RiseBoth loaves into the fridge
4. Loaf I:
Final Shape » Rest
Bake
72 hr cold rise, shaped with rice flour, rested 20 min.
(held a perfect lame score), baked 25/20
4. Loaf II:
Final Shape » Rest
Bake
6 day cold rise, shaped with rice flour, rested 15 min.
baked 25/20

The experiments continue…

NOTES: The first loaf was a little dense and chewy… also, a little dry. The second loaf sat in the fridge for 6 days – ugh. My fault. It was a busy week. The second loaf didn’t hold its shape or the lame. It was gooey and wet, and a little frozen from being at the back of the fridge. It certainly smelled like sourdough – ha! And, it stuck to the pan. However, it did taste great, despite it’s smooshed shape.

Round 6: Me vs Tartine

Tartine Bread Book

Better and better.


  • 700g JS (Straight ~ no leaven)
  • 450g 80°F H2O
  • 675g AP Flour
  • 150g WW Flour
  • 20g salt + 50g H2O
1. Mix » RestNo float test, mixed in metal bowl, rested 45 min
2. +Salt & Water » Bulk Rise » TurnsMoved to glass bowl, 4 hrs (every 30 min) » 7 turns, 8x each
3. Pre-shape » Cold RiseBoth loaves into the fridge
4. Loaf I » Final Shape » Bake24 hr cold rise, shaped w/flour » THE BEST LOAF YET!
4. Loaf II » Bake48 hr cold rise, , shaped w/flour » held a nice shape

Seriously ~ the best loaves of mostly-June-Steinburg so far.

NOTES: I feel like I’m starting to get it. The successful loaves have been made with the 90/10 mix of flours from the Basic Country Bread recipe. Now that these are turning out good with more consistency, it’s time to try the funky stuff ~ adding other flavors and textures with this basic recipe. With the mostly-June-Steinburg, I’m going to focus on getting the whole-wheat bread to have the same airy texture.


See: Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson

Know thyself.

Le Creuset

Guidelines are great.

Tried and true.

And then… oh look, the Queen.


I’m distracted by my own thoughts ~ like a crow dazzled by something sparkly. How can I add more flavor? How can I get each loaf to puff up more? When will the neighbors put up black-out curtains to keep me away?

What I’ve learned so far is…

Convection
Our oven has hot spots, so using the convection setting creates a more stable heating environment. The “convection” part is just a $10 fan at the back of the oven, but it distributes heat evenly. This is great for baking, and in particular for baking bread in a dutch oven where the lid stays on for half of the process (the fan can create a drying effect, so use your convection setting with caution).

Dutch Oven
Baking bread in a dutch oven makes fabulous bread (and it doesn’t stick to the pan ~ don’t get me started on loaf pans). The Tartine folks recommend a cast-iron combo cooker, but I’ve been using a Le Creuset dutch oven that we already had (enameled cast iron). Same idea, just upside down and enameled. In my earlier attempts ~ BT (Before Tartine), I put a pan of water in the lowest rack and baked the bread on a cookie sheet. Terrible.

More Steam
Using the lid for the first half of cooking brings out the moisture in the bread and creates steam (what I was trying to do with the pan of water). More testing is required on my part, but this initial steaming creates rise and sets the bread’s shape so I’m tempted to add more time to this part of the process ~ everyone’s oven is different, and I think it’s worth a try to see if I can get more lift… more air into each loaf.

Refrigeration
Cold fermentation of up to 48 hours has yielded the best loaves so far. For me. Both in flavor and in rise and airiness. I’m looking for a good crust on the outside (not too thick), a fluffy but chewy and almost moist and cake-like interior, and great flavor.

Sure… Follow The Recipe

Guidelines folks. Again, every recipe I’ve followed to the letter has yielded great bread. All of the resources I’ve listed are truly fantastic (and not just for bread recipes). It’s just that I have this bread-memory… like a Ratatouille moment (great movie) ~ the smell of the bread, it’s warmth in my hand, the texture of the crust in my fingers, taking that first bite, maneuvering my teeth through the outer crust and feeling joy at sinking them into the interior airiness and chew of the bread itself, meanwhile the aroma and then the hit of sourness, then a nuttiness and depth of flavors… *sigh*

Then a ferocious desire to cram all of it down my gullet ~ like wanting to eat an entire cake. Best for anyone else to just back away… slowly.

Tartine, sorry and thank you.

I’m lucky to live close to Tartine Bakery (as close as one can be to anything in San Francisco), and I’m very glad I bought their bread cookbook. I’m not targeting them at random. I have numerous bread-making books, but Tartine Bread stands out in particular because Chad explains why things are happening and what to try to make things better. And, he makes you feel good about experimenting on your own. Thanks Chad. Tools, buddy. I have a long way to go, but you’ve given me tools and hope.

Round 4: Me vs Tartine

Tartine Bread Book

June Steinburg, baby.


The next trial in my all-June-Steinburg-all-the-time recipe attempt.

  • 700g JS (Straight ~ no leaven)
  • 450g 80°F H2O
  • 675g AP Flour
  • *75g WW Flour
  • 20g salt + 50g H2O
1. Mix » RestNo float test, mixed in metal bowl, rested 45 min
2. +Salt & Water » Bulk Rise » TurnsMoved to glass bowl, *added 4 handfuls of WW flour at first turn. 4 hrs (every 30 min) » 7 turns, 8x each (vigorous)
3. Pre-shape » Cold RiseBoth loaves into the fridge
4. Loaf I » Final Shape » Bake24 hr cold rise, shaped w/flour » held a nice, tall dome
4. Loaf II » Bake48 hr cold rise, no shaping » held a nice shape

Not a disaster.

NOTES: This still needs a lot of tweaking, but it worked out. The dough felt super wet and sticky during the bulk rise, so I added more whole-wheat flour. In the end, both loaves were perfectly edible but denser and chewier than the accurate recipe. The 1st-day bread was good. Toasted over the next few days the bread had equally good texture and didn’t feel too dried out. Again, both loaves were still too dense ~ not quite getting the air and rise that I’m looking for. However, I like the sour flavor ~ its not too much or too little. The ratios were fairly accurate this time but depend on how much water goes into June’s feedings. I’ll try this again when June gets too big for her britches.


See: Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson

Round 1: Me vs Tartine

Tartine Bread Book

How can I use more starter?

Why is my bread terrible?

What the heck?


My first concoction of flours and ingredients based loosely on Tartine’s Basic Country Bread recipe:

  • 600g June Steinburg (JS)
  • 700g water @112°F
  • 500g all-purpose (AP) flour
  • 100g whole-wheat (WW) flour (+ about ten handfuls because the dough was more like batter than dough, added two handfuls at a time during bulk fermentation every 15 minutes)
  • 20g salt + 50g water
1. Mix Dough » Rest35 min
2. Bulk Fermentation5 hrs
3. Shaping » Bench Rest25 min
4. Final Shaping » Rise(shaped twice) 3 hrs
5. Bake(in a dutch oven) 20 min w/lid, 30 min w/o lid

NOTES: Too wet. Too dry. Too wet. I don’t know what the hell I’m doing. The first loaf had a good crust with an airy and yummy interior. I didn’t get a lot of rise though ~ the loaf was fairly flat. I refrigerated the second loaf and left it overnight ~ this one held its shape better and got more rise.

NEXT TIME: Quit being a jerk and use the right amount of starter. And measure everything right too. And stick a thermometer into the water while you’re at it.


See: Tartine Bread by Chad Robertson